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The science behind HSC01-A™

The science behind HSC01-A™

Silk’s powerful properties in skincare have been celebrated for centuries. On the ancient Silk Road, women of Seres were famed for their hands, as soft as the silk they once cultivated. Today, market-leading brands such as Tatcha, Peter Thomas Roth and Elemis use silk-derived ingredients widely across their formulations. Seresilk and HSC01-A™ is different.

The hero ingredient behind each Seresilk formulation is the proprietary Hydrolysed Silk Complex HSC01-A™. Over 2× more powerful than market alternatives, the secret behind HSC01-A™ is the laboratory-formulated blend’s uniquely cruelty-free and Australian silk, expertly nurtured in Australia’s pristine and natural environment.

Through our proprietary hydrolysis system, the silk undergoes a precise lab hydrolysis process whereby the discarded silk from each empty cocoon is liquefied to unlock a rare blend of di- and tripeptides alongside silk’s native 18 free amino acids. Sharing a 90% rate of affinity with human skin and echoing its natural-moisturising factors, these amino acids rebuild the intercellular lipid matrix, while bioactive peptides prompt fibroblasts to support elasticity and renew the skin’s youthful luminosity.

To demonstrate the power of HSC01-A™, we have conducted an analysis between other market-leading alternatives.

Hydrolysed silk formulation competitor analysis of amino acid profiles

Amino acids HSC01-A™ Trulux Crosilk G
Alanine 24.98% 28.47% 32.50%
Arginine 1.90% 0.84% 0.70%
Aspartic Acid 3.93% 2.28% 3.50%
Cystine 0.00% 0.23% 0.02%
Glutamic Acid 2.58% 2.03% 2.60%
Glycine 30.53% 35.50% 38.40%
Histidine 0.00% 0.33% 0.10%
Isoleucine 0.71% 0.81% 0.70%
Leucine 0.67% 0.60% 1.00%
Lysine 0.91% 0.50% 0.30%
Methionine 0.27% 0.13% 0.00%
Phenylalanine 1.35% 1.23% 0.20%
Proline 0.79% 0.36% 1.00%
Serine 19.43% 12.03% 14.60%
Threonine 1.67% 1.08% 1.40%
Tryptophan 0.00% 0.36% 0.00%
Tyrosine 7.93% 10.31% 0.40%
Valine 2.34% 2.92% 2.60%
Total Protein % 2.52% 1.14% Unknown

The amino acid composition of silk proteins can play a significant role in how each formulation impacts skin health, and understanding these differences can help guide the choice of products that may suit specific skincare needs.

To interpret the data, it is important to consider that HSC01-A™ boasts a higher total protein content (2.52%) compared to Trulux (1.14%), resulting in a more abundant supply of beneficial peptides and amino acids. Even though certain individual amino acids, such as glycine and serine, are present in slightly lower percentages in HSC01-A™, their overall quantity is greater due to the larger protein base. This distinction is crucial: a higher total protein content ensures a richer supply of essential amino acids. Crosilk G does not provide information on its total protein content, but it serves as a comparison to demonstrate the amino acid profile of a third product.

The results below attributed to competitor brands are freely available online given the strict disclosure requirements common in the skincare industry.

How to interpret the data? Not only is the HSC01-A™ total protein content significantly higher, but its amino acid profile stands out due to its balanced composition. Let’s break down some of the key amino acids in HSC01-A™ which are present in higher %’s across the HSC01-A™ formulation:

Serine (19.43%):
HSC01-A™ stands out with its notably higher serine content. This amino acid plays a key role in enhancing hydration, supporting collagen production, and improving skin elasticity. The increased serine concentration in HSC01-A™ helps to maintain moisture balance, leading to a more supple and plump appearance. The combination of serine and other balanced amino acids ensures that HSC01-A™ provides comprehensive nourishment, repair, and protection for the skin.

Arginine (1.90%):
Compared to Trulux and Crosilk G, which contain much lower concentrations of arginine, HSC01-A™ arginine helps improve blood circulation, promoting the delivery of nutrients to skin cells. This accelerates healing, boosts hydration, and encourages a healthier, radiant complexion. Its role in skin rejuvenation makes HSC01-A™ a superior choice for long-term skin health.

Aspartic Acid (3.93%):
Aspartic acid plays a crucial role in detoxifying the skin and promoting moisture retention. Higher levels of this amino acid compared to Trulux and Crosilk G make HSC01-A™ particularly effective in maintaining skin hydration and promoting a fresh, revitalized appearance. Aspartic acid also supports the skin’s ability to renew itself, helping to maintain a youthful, glowing complexion.

Lysine (0.91%):
Lysine is essential for collagen production, and HSC01-A™ concentration supports the formation of a firm, youthful complexion. When compared to Trulux and Crosilk G, HSC01-A™ lysine helps maintain skin elasticity and smoothness, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Its presence contributes to skin regeneration, improving texture and tone over time.

Methionine (0.27%):
Although present in smaller amounts, methionine in HSC01-A™ plays a crucial role in the regeneration of damaged skin cells. By supporting skin detoxification, it promotes healthier, more radiant skin. Its presence ensures that HSC01-A™ does not only hydrate but also revitalizes the skin, giving it a fresher, more luminous look.

Phenylalanine (1.35%):
Phenylalanine works synergistically with other amino acids in HSC01-A™, acting as an antioxidant to protect the skin from oxidative damage. This level of protection is more pronounced in HSC01-A™ compared to the others, making it an excellent choice for guarding against environmental stressors while promoting a clear, even complexion.

Threonine (1.67%):
While Trulux and Crosilk G feature lower levels of threonine, HSC01-A™ higher threonine content strengthens the skin’s barrier function. This helps protect the skin from external irritants and supports moisture retention, ensuring your skin stays hydrated and resilient. With Seresilk, you benefit from long-lasting hydration and improved skin defence.

Explaining the percentages, further:
While some profiles demonstrate lower percentage figures than Trulux, HSC01-A™ and its higher total protein content means you’re actually receiving a higher dose of each amino acid.

  1. For example, glycine in HSC01-A™ is 30.53%, while Trulux has 35.50%. However, HSC01-A™ total protein content is 2.52%, compared to Trulux’s 1.14%. To calculate the total dose of glycine:
  2. HSC01-A™: 30.53% glycine × 2.52% total protein = 0.7693% glycine in the formulation.
  3. Trulux: 35.50% glycine × 1.14% total protein = 0.4057% glycine in the formulation.

Even though glycine’s percentage is lower in HSC01-A™, the higher protein content gives a higher dose of glycine overall, 0.7693% compared to 0.4057% in Trulux. This means HSC01-A™ provides more glycine per dose, despite having a lower percentage. The same logic applies to the below amino acids which are staples in silk blends and offer significant benefits.

Glycine (30.53%):
Though glycine is lower in HSC01-A™ compared to Trulux, its high total protein content ensures a greater dose per application. Glycine is essential for promoting hydration and improving skin elasticity. It helps maintain the skin’s moisture barrier, keeping the skin plump, smooth, and hydrated, enhancing overall skin health.

Alanine (24.98%):
While alanine is present in lower percentages in HSC01-A™, the higher total protein content delivers a stronger dose. Alanine plays a key role in moisture retention, supporting the skin’s ability to stay hydrated throughout the day. This makes HSC01-A™ an excellent choice for keeping skin nourished and rejuvenated.

Tyrosine (7.93%):
Tyrosine, although marginally lower in percentage in HSC01-A™ compared to Trulux, still has a significantly higher total protein content when compared to the brand, contributing to the skin’s defence by aiding melanin production. This helps protect the skin from UV radiation and environmental stress, promoting a healthy, even skin tone. The higher protein content in HSC01-A™ ensures a more potent dose of tyrosine for better skin protection and resilience.

Appendix:

1.) Not all silk used across skincare is equal. The following factors impact its quality:

  • Hydrolysis procedures, and
  • The diet and environmental conditions of the silkworm contributing to its overall wellbeing and consequent quality of silk.

2.) Peptides form when protein chains remain partially intact, allowing them to act as signalling molecules that stimulate collagen production and reinforce skin structure. Acting as messengers, the peptides trigger the skin’s natural repair processes to improve texture and maintain a healthy, balanced complexion. Meanwhile, free amino acids result from complete protein breakdown, providing the fundamental building blocks that strengthen the skin’s natural barrier, improving hydration and preventing moisture loss, which keeps the skin soft and nourished.

3.) The majority of peptides in hydrolysed silk are tripeptides, with an average molecular weight that typically sits at approximately 300 Da. Seresilk hydrolysed silk also includes dipeptides (two amino acids), and larger peptides, each contributing to a synergy of various-sized peptides that nurture and support the skin barrier. Keeping in mind that peptides under 500 Da generally penetrate the skin well, the variety of peptides in a single hydrolysed silk formulation offers significant benefits at different levels by acting at both the surface and deeper layers of the skin.

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